Sixteen33’s menu takes celebrating local to an even more microscopic level. For instance, the Ranwar extols the fact that over four centuries ago, this tiny village was surrounded by paddy fields. Oshtori’s cocktail features the indigenous Indrayani rice liqueur, gin, lemon tincture, and a mist of absinthe, “served in a clay glass with crispy rice garnish”.
Similarly, Chuim, which is the namesake to a bygone place which a posh Bandra neighbourhood today, blends white rum, sherry, coconut syrup and jasmine air “to evoke the village’s history of flower cultivation”. Other bartistes have climbed on the bandwagon.
Mumbai’s Bandra seems to be where the action is. Bandra Born, situated in the eponymous suburb promotes a cocktail menu that includes mahua—an indigenous liquor commonplace in India’s tribal belts. Often called the world’s “oldest distilled liquor”, mahua fell from grace after it was outlawed by the British in colonial India. Today, Bandra Born presents itself as “India’s first mahua-dedicated bar”.
Out east, Rajan Sethi’s contemporary dining venture AM/PM opened its doors in Kolkata with a cocktail menu that is an ode to the grand old city’s soon-to-be-discontinued trams. For instance, a cocktail from AM/PM’s menu is called Line 25 to Yesterday, and features aged rum, banana oil, mixed nuts, all-spice, vanilla and chocolate bitters. It is a homage to the city’s hawkers who sell treats on trams.
Balachandran adds that the focus on local ingredients, dishes and produce have helped his bar create a niche for itself. Crafts are not just textiles and brass, it is spirits too. “Our beverages honour Goa by working with local farms, producers and artisans to highlight regional flavours and locally-made spirits. We’re trying to promote Goa’s locally crafted spirits in our creations,” he says.
In Delhi, Ravish Bhavnani, co-founder and chief mixologist of Fig ‘n Maple, has created a cocktails menu that taps into India’s fondness for sharbats. “We took cues from our extensive travels through the country to create a refreshing new experience,” says Bhavnani, adding, “In our homes now, many traditional ingredients that were once commonplace have faded into obscurity. We’re trying to revive these forgotten treasures, such as nannari (a herb, known better as sarsaparilla or sugandhi), gond katira (tragacanth gum), palash (an edible flower) and more. We’re using them in our cocktails today.”
With Indians shedding social inhibitions even in small towns towards drinking alcohol, new cocktail projects take their inspiration from little-known native spirits and ingredients to create fabulous mixes that show the diversity of cultures and tastes.
“Our beverage programme celebrates Goa’s rich bounty by highlighting regional flavours and locally-made spirits.”
Pankaj Balachandran
