A few streets away, in the heart of the Old Town is another landmark: Ribarnica or the fish market. Set up in an old building, the first thing to notice is the absence of flies (owing to nearby sulphur spas). Unsurprisingly, there’s fish and seafood everywhere in Split. Sardines are usually salted, eaten with olive oil and capers.
Mussels are steamed with white wine and olive oil, and served with bread in a dish called buzzara. Cuttlefish and cuttlefish ink are used to make a black risotto. These items can be found across konobas (a taverna that typically serves local food) like Konoba Deep Shade or Konoba Fetivi.
Split enjoys really good weather, with temperatures not dropping too low or going too high. The Riva Promenade is where locals go to enjoy a walk, meet people, sip a coffee while looking out onto the sailboats and ships, or just eat some gelato.
Locals eat ice cream throughout the year, which explains the many gelato and ice cream shops dishing out flavours like coconut and rosemary, fig, mojito, carrot, olive oil and of course, lavender. Most recently, a gelateria—Bili San—launched a ‘First in the world’ flavour: chicken-flavoured ice cream.
In Croatia, lavender is a common summer crop and it is thus, widely used: as an herb, in teas, honey, jams, syrups, in soaps, oils, ice cream/gelato and even chocolate. The ubiquitous olive oil also makes it to chocolates.
Though the Old Town is now choc-a-block with shops, there are some local haunts. Tradicija Bakery claims to be the oldest pastry shop, run by the Kirigin family. They are popular for their pastries, and sirnica (sweet loaf eaten during Lent) and their rafioli (crescent-shaped pastry with a ground almond filling).
A closer look at the stalls reveals many local liqueurs and spirits, which make for good souvenirs and gifts. There’s orahovac made with unripe, green walnuts; white wine made from grapes found only on Korcula island, and fruit brandies made from Marasca cherries or honey.
It feels like an apt way to toast the culinary wonders of this small town.
