Soaking in the sights, sounds and smells of the food markets of Galle, a charming European-style city in southern Sri Lanka, is immersive. The Rathgama Wella Fish Market sprawled along the beach, is a whirligig of activity at 6 am. Fishmongers are offloading the glistening maalu (‘fish’ in Sinhala) caught from the Indian Ocean.

Locals crowd and haggle over the catches of the day. “Fresh fish depends on what the boats have caught in the morning,” explains guide Chef Wijendra, F&B Director of Le Grand Galle Hotel located on a beach overlooking the UNESCO heritage site of Galle Forte. Rifling through piles of fish and mud crabs, the chef picks out the yellow-striped traveli fish, a barracuda and fresh crabs.

Back at the hotel, a live cooking demo is set up at the ocean-fronted restaurant, aptly named Blue. Onions are chopped at lightening speed and sautéed in a clay pot. Into these are gradually added pandan leaves, coconut cream, cinnamon, veniwal (tree turmeric) and other condiments. As the aroma fills the air, fish pieces are slipped in.

The dish is served with country red rice; tempered prawns, curried dhal and long beans curry. The herbaceous gotukola sambal (a salad of chopped arugula, parsley and kale) served fresh with a squirt of lemon make for a delicious accompaniment.

The three centuries old Dutch Market near Galle Fort is an explosion of colours with the freshest of produce piled high on stalls. Adding more drama to the food theatre are local farmers who bring their push carts brimming with luminous produce. Cashews, mangosteen, rambutans, wood apple, soursop, durian, the sweetest and softest custard apples as well as cashew apples vie for attention.